The wines of Dom Bliskowice, based in eastern Poland (between Krakow and Warsaw, same latitude as Dresden), are a great place to start. The owners Lech Mill and Maciej Sondij are Warsaw architects, who also have a restaurant and a wine importing business focused on artisanal wine.
The first vine seedlings were planted in the fields of the villages of Bliskowice and Popów in the Annopol municipality in the spring of 2009. The pitches are located on the lofty slope of the Vistula valley, from where there is a picturesque view of the meandering river. This is the land of limestone hills: the Lesser Poland Gorge of the Vistula.
The southwestern exposure provides optimal sunlight. The slope drains cold spring air. The limestone substrate maintains the right level of moisture in the soil, and the Great River below is like an air conditioner: in winter it relieves frosts and in summer it disperses hailstorms.
The wine is from 8-year-old vines of Johanniter, a 1968 German hybrid with Riesling and another hybrid Freiburg 589-54 as parents (Riesling and Seyve-Villard x Ruländer x Gutedel). Fermentation was spontaneous with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Two-week skin maceration. Six-month ageing on lees.
The wine has herbaceous notes and earthy tannins, rosemary and vermut leaf aromas, tasty green apple and wonderful complexity. Addictive sweet-and-sour combo. The tongue-tickling 10g/l acidity is countered equally by 10g/l residual sugar. The initial concentrated honey and apple is reminiscent of Riesling. However, apricot notes come in mid-palate and adds more structure. The finish is light with lime entering after the heavier fruits.
Fab with Hawaiian stone fired pizza, gammon and pineapple or good old kebab and chips!
